Like any type of electric

Like any type of electric heat, radiant panels can be expensive to operate, but they can provide supplemental heating in some rooms or can provide heat to a home addition when extending the conventional heating system is impractical.

Radiant panels have the quickest response time of any heating technology and -- because the panels can be individually controlled for each room—the quick response feature can result in cost and energy savings compared with other systems when rooms are infrequently occupied. When entering a room, the occupant can increase the temperature setting and be comfortable within minutes. As with any heating system, set the thermostat to a minimum temperature that will prevent pipes from freezing.

Radiant heating panels operate on a line-of-sight basis -- you'll be most comfortable if you're close to the panel. Some people find ceiling-mounted systems uncomfortable because the panels heat the top of their heads and shoulders more effectively than the rest of their bodies.

If you want carpeting

If you want carpeting, use a thin carpet with dense padding and install as little carpeting as possible. If some rooms, but not all, will have a floor covering, then those rooms should have a separate tubing loop to make the system heat these spaces more efficiently. This is because the water flowing under the covered floor will need to be hotter to compensate for the floor covering. Wood flooring should be laminated wood flooring instead of solid wood to reduce the possibility of the wood shrinking and cracking from the drying effects of the heat.

RADIANT PANELS

Wall- and ceiling-mounted radiant panels are usually made of aluminum and can be heated with either electricity or with tubing that carries hot water, although the latter creates concerns about leakage in wall- or ceiling-mounted systems. Most commercially available radiant panels for homes are electrically heated.

At least one company

At least one company has improved on this idea by making a plywood subfloor material manufactured with tubing grooves and aluminum heat diffuser plates built into them. The manufacturer claims that this product makes a radiant floor system (for new construction) considerably less expensive to install and faster to react to room temperature changes. Such products also allow for the use of half as much tubing or cabling, because the heat transfer of the floor is greatly improved compared with more traditional dry or wet floors.

FLOOR COVERINGS

Ceramic tile is the most common and effective floor covering for radiant floor heating, because it conducts heat well and adds thermal storage. Common floor coverings like vinyl and linoleum sheet goods, carpeting, or wood can also be used, but any covering that insulates the floor from the room will decrease the efficiency of the system.

TYPES OF FLOOR INSTALLATIONS

TYPES OF FLOOR INSTALLATIONS

Whether you use cables or tubing, the methods of installing electric and hydronic radiant systems in floors are similar.

So-called "wet" installations embed the cables or tubing in a solid floor and are the oldest form of modern radiant floor systems. The tubing or cable can be embedded in a thick concrete foundation slab (commonly used in "slab" ranch houses that don't have basements) or in a thin layer of concrete, gypsum, or other material installed on top of a subfloor. If concrete is used and the new floor is not on solid earth, additional floor support may be necessary because of the added weight. You should consult a professional engineer to determine the floor's carrying capacity.

Thick concrete slabs are ideal for storing heat from solar energy systems, which have a fluctuating heat output. The downside of thick slabs is their slow thermal response time, which makes strategies such as night or daytime setbacks difficult if not impossible. Most experts recommend maintaining a constant temperature in homes with these heating systems.

HYDRONIC RADIANT FLOORS

HYDRONIC RADIANT FLOORS

Hydronic (liquid) systems are the most popular and cost-effective radiant heating systems for heating-dominated climates. Hydronic radiant floor systems pump heated water from a boiler through tubing laid in a pattern under the floor. In some systems, controlling the flow of hot water through each tubing loop by using zoning valves or pumps and thermostats regulates room temperatures. The cost of installing a hydronic radiant floor varies by location and depends on the size of the home, the type of installation, the floor covering, remoteness of the site, and the cost of labor.

ELECTRIC RADIANT FLOORS

ELECTRIC RADIANT FLOORS

Electric radiant floors typically consist of electric cables built into the floor. Systems that feature mats of electrically conductive plastic mounted on the subfloor below a floor covering such as tile are also available.

Because of the relatively high cost of electricity, electric radiant floors are usually only cost-effective if they include a significant thermal mass such as a thick concrete floor and your electric utility company offers time-of-use rates. Time-of-use rates allow you to "charge" the concrete floor with heat during off-peak hours (approximately 9 p.m. to 6 a.m.). If the floor's thermal mass is large enough, the heat stored in it will keep the house comfortable for eight to ten hours without any further electrical input, particularly when daytime temperatures are significantly warmer than nighttime temperatures. This saves a considerable number of energy dollars compared to heating at peak electric rates during the day.

Despite its name,

Despite its name, radiant floor heating depends heavily on convection, the natural circulation of heat within a room as air warmed by the floor rises. Radiant floor heating systems are significantly different from the radiant panels used in walls and ceilings. For this reason, the following sections discuss radiant floor heat and radiant panels separately.

RADIANT FLOOR HEAT

There are three types of radiant floor heat -- radiant air floors (air is the heat-carrying medium), electric radiant floors, and hot water (hydronic) radiant floors. You can further categorize these types by installation. Those that make use of the large thermal mass of a concrete slab floor or lightweight concrete over a wooden subfloor are called "wet installations,” and those in which the installer "sandwiches" the radiant floor tubing between two layers of plywood or attaches the tubing under the finished floor or subfloor are called "dry installations."

Radiant heating

Radiant heating systems supply heat directly to the floor or to panels in the wall or ceiling of a house. The systems depend largely on radiant heat transfer -- the delivery of heat directly from the hot surface to the people and objects in the room via infrared radiation. Radiant heating is the effect you feel when you can feel the warmth of a hot stovetop element from across the room. When radiant heating is located in the floor, it is often called radiant floor heating or simply floor heating.

Radiant heating has a number of advantages. It is more efficient than baseboard heating and usually more efficient than forced-air heating because it eliminates duct losses. People with allergies often prefer radiant heat because it doesn’t distribute allergens like forced air systems can. Hydronic (liquid-based) systems use little electricity, a benefit for homes off the power grid or in areas with high electricity prices.

Due to recent innovations

Due to recent innovations in floor technology, so-called "dry" floors, in which the cables or tubing run in an air space beneath the floor, have been gaining in popularity, mainly because a dry floor is faster and less expensive to build. But because dry floors involve heating an air space, the radiant heating system needs to operate at a higher temperature.

Some dry installations involve suspending the tubing or cables under the subfloor between the joists. This method usually requires drilling through the floor joists to install the tubing. Reflective insulation must also be installed under the tubes to direct the heat upward. Tubing or cables may also be installed from above the floor, between two layers of subfloor. In these instances, liquid tubing is often fitted into aluminum diffusers that spread the water's heat across the floor in order to heat the floor more evenly. The tubing and heat diffusers are secured between furring strips (sleepers), which carry the weight of the new subfloor and finished floor surface.

Baseboard heaters

Baseboard heaters supply heat to each room individually, so they are ideally suited to zone heating, which involves heating the occupied rooms in your home while allowing unoccupied area (such as empty guest rooms or seldom-used rooms) to remain cooler. Zone heating can produce energy savings of more than 20% compared to heating both occupied and unoccupied areas of your house.

Zone heating is most effective when the cooler portions of your home are insulated from the heated portions, allowing the different zones to truly operate independently. Note that the cooler parts of your home still need to be heated to well above freezing to avoid freezing pipes.

Even though

Even though the program is transparent  in the sense that all equations are  reported in the model, it is very hard to understand and follow the calculations, and the program cannot be said to be transparent in the general sense. The interface of the program is not very friendly and can easily confuse the user. The model does not include tap water.
Possibility Making the ground water and borehole temperature climate dependent might lead to results more sufficient to its actual installation spot.  
Risk The model is not adjusted to fit heat pumps and is disadvantaging heat pumps. Despite this the COP and capacity of water to water heat pumps can be overestimated since they are tested at +10°C at the cold side (this can also happen to ground source heat pumps, but probably not to the same extent).

Weakness

Weakness The model takes only air to air heat pumps into account. In accordance to prEN14825 the test points for the heat pump has to be chosen specifically to fit the chosen climate and heat profile of the house.  In accordance to LOT 1 the model does not include an effect balance at each temperature bin. This results in that the heat demand of a house at a specific temperature bin is different at different climates and that the heat requirement of a backup heater is misleading.  The model does not seem to be entirely consistent, partly it is contradicting itself.

Possibility

Possibility To make the model usable at other spots it would be better to make it possible to use other climates. Now the model only provides a number of specified heat loads of the house. It would be useful to be able to freely choose the heat demand of the house. There is a risk though, that since the heat pump has to be tested in part load, it has to be tested at each specific heat requirement.  
Other types of heat pumps could be included in the model. The model only provides the SPF (SCOP) with the backup heater included. For comparable reasons, it would be useful to include a SPF with backup heater excluded.  
Risk It is not obvious whether the excel model is compatible with the standard. There are also some calculations in the standard that seems to be incorrect

Heat (and cooling-) demand of the house

Heat (and cooling-) demand of the house
This study is focused on heat pumps for indoor heating. The study is made in houses with different heat demand. The ground source heat pumps in this study are considered monovalent, but it is difficult to determine the actual energy demand of the house. When using the calculation models the required heat load of the house is decided by the capacity of the heat pump.
The studied air to air heat pump is not monovalent. The energy demand of the house with the heat pump installation was estimated in the field study. When using the calculation models the energy demand of the house were tried to be the same as in the field stud

The indoor climate

The indoor climate is expected to reach 20°C for all models. In the calculation models the heat pump is used to reach a temperature of 16°C. Internal gains are expected to contribute to the last temperature increase.
The actual indoor temperature has not been measured in the Fraunhofer field measurements. Thereby it is not possible to compare the real indoor temperatures with the temperatures estimated in the calculation models.

The outdoor

The outdoor climate follows the climate of the year.  The calculation models use the same temperature climate when calculating SPF for the ground source heat pumps. The climate corresponds to a European average climate, Strasbourg, with the coldest temperature of - 10°C.
The field measurements of the ground source heat pumps are carried out in Germany. The heat pumps installations used for the SPF calculations are spread over the country, from the Hamburg area in the north to Stuttgart in the south. In the calculation models the average climate is chosen as the climate mostly corresponding to the German.
The air to air heat pump installation is made in a climate that is similar to the “colder” climate. Therefore the colder climate is used in the calculation models when calculating SPF for the air to air heat pump.

normally measured

SPF1 is normally measured on the brine/water sides of the evaporator/condenser, but it could also be measured directly in the refrigeration loop with e.g. the Climacheck equipment [10]. This requires measurement of the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant. This methodology is very efficient if the status/condition or diagnosis of the heat pump is to be evaluated, but generally in domestic heat pumps, the measurement  is not easy to carry out since measurement sockets are not generally installed

Purpose

Purpose
It is the intent of this document to provide consumers
and specifiers of HVAC system cleaning and restoration
services with information needed to help ensure that
cleaning is performed to acceptable standards and in
such a manner that the services contribute to improved
system cleanliness and/or system performance.
This standard also defines the requirements necessary
to construct and install service openings in HVAC
systems.
1.3 Application
ACR 2006 provides standards and guidance for industry
professionals, HVAC cleaning and restoration service
providers, building owners and others who manage
HVAC systems.
The requirements of this standard apply to all
classifications of buildings, except as otherwise specified
herein.

ACR 2006 is the fourth edition

ACR 2006 is the fourth edition of NADCA's standard for
HVAC system cleaning. The first edition, NADCA Standard
1992-01, raised the performance bar for the industry by
establishing the first method to verify post-cleaning
cleanliness levels. The second edition, ACR 2002, built on
the principles established in NADCA Standard 1992-01, but
included many additional provisions for evaluating
cleanliness before cleaning as well as requirements for how
to perform cleaning services

commercial, industrial,

ACR 2005 was written for commercial, industrial,
healthcare, marine and residential applications. The
Standard represented NADCA’s continued commitment to
being the HVAC cleaning industry’s authoritative source for
information related to HVAC system cleaning and
restoration. ACR 2005 reflected a national and
international collaboration of indoor environmental
professionals, HVAC professionals, remediation, restoration
and cleaning organizations all working together to create a
document that was globally relevant in today’s society.
The fourth edition, ACR 2006, incorporates everything from
ACR 2005, and includes an extensive protocol for cleaning
coils. In addition, Standard 05, Requirements for the
Installation of Service Openings in HVAC Systems, has
been incorporated into ACR 2006. The result is a
comprehensive standard that goes beyond previous
editions to provide for superior HVAC system cleaning and
restoration.

This standard defines procedures for assessing

This standard defines procedures for assessing the
cleanliness of HVAC systems and for determining when
cleaning is required.
This standard sets acceptable criteria for the safe and
effective cleaning and restoration of HVAC systems and
components. It also defines environmental engineering
principles necessary to control the migration of HVAC
system particulate.
This standard provides test methods for verifying HVAC
component cleanliness upon the completion of a
cleaning project. This standard defines procedures
necessary to allow HVAC system cleaning work to be
performed in accordance with the requirements of IICRC
S520, Standard and Reference Guide for Professional
Mold Remediation.
The requirements set forth in this document address
cleaning, building use, contaminant type, worker and
occupant health and safety, and project monitoring.
This standard identifies construction methods and
material performance criteria for the safe and effective
creation and installation of new service openings used to
facilitate the inspection and cleaning of HVAC systems.

Weakness

Weakness The model is not completely clear with its definitions of part loads. The part load ratio for which the heat pump is to be tested is the part load energy demand of the building at the corresponding temperature bin. To perform the SPF calculations according to prEN14825 the heat pump is tested at a certain climate (A,W or C) and a certain heat load profile for the building. This means that the test data might not be suitable for another climate or another heat load.

HVAC cleaning

HVAC cleaning services have been available since the
early 1900s. However, it was not until the 1970s that
growing public concern for better IAQ led to an
understanding of the importance of cleaning HVAC system
components. Public awareness has increased ever since.
Greater demand for HVAC cleaning resulted in dramatic
growth for the HVAC system cleaning industry both for firms
offering service, as well as those providing research and
knowledge of HVAC system cleaning and its impact on

After the HVAC s

After the HVAC system is installed and its operation begins,
the particulate accumulation process continues throughout
the life of the system. Poor design, installation and
maintenance practices, low-efficiency air filtration, air flow
bypass, inadequate or infrequent preventative maintenance
practices, humid conditions, and many other factors will
result in contaminated HVAC systems. HVAC systems may
also serve to transport and redistribute unwanted particles
from other sources in the building.

ACR 2005,

ACR 2005, the third edition, went further than any previous
NADCA standard. It covered the same essential elements
of assessment and cleaning detailed in the previous
documents and also provides more detailed requirements
for managing HVAC system cleaning projects, including
clearly defined conditions that require cleaning. ACR 2005
was revised such that its requirements were in accordance
with the latest standard for mold remediation published by
the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration
Certification (IICRC), S520 - Standard and Reference
Guide for Professional Mold Remediation. By working in
cooperation with representatives from IICRC and other
industry organizations to update the ACR standard, the
2005 edition was a standard that could be utilized not only
as a standard for professional HVAC system cleaning
contractors, but also as a comprehensive reference source
for consumers, facility administrators, engineers, mold
restoration contractors, general contractors, architects, or
HVAC project design consultants

Strenghts A strength o

Strenghts A strength of standard prEN14825 is that it includes all kinds of heat pumps (except exhaust air heat pumps). The model treats heat pumps both in heating and cooling operation. The fact that the heat pump is tested in exactly part load should result in more sufficient results compared to degradation coefficient etc. The model is foreseeable and quite easy to follow

Determining HVAC System

Determining HVAC System Cleanliness  HVAC system cleanliness should be evaluated by visual inspection or an approved vacuum test method as outlined in appropriate NADCA standards. An HVAC interior surface is considered visibly clean when it is free of non-adhered debris. Vacuum test methods include visual surface comparison of “clean” areas before and after vacuuming as well as sampling a known surface area to determine the net weight of debris per area sampled to compare to an acceptable NADCA level

should be cleaned

HVAC systems should be cleaned when a visual inspection indicates excessive particulate debris or microbiological growth on any interior surfaces. A fiber optic system or video inspection system is recommended to document the condition of the system both before and after any cleaning. A limited amount of adhered dust is expected on the inside surfaces of HVAC systems and may not indicate a problem. Obvious problems that require cleaning and restoration would include visible microbiological contamination, significant amounts of particulate debris coming out of supply ducts, or deteriorated fiberglass insulation that was contaminating the supply air. In all cases, the source or cause of particulate contamination or microbiological proliferation must be determined and corrected prior to system cleaning.  
Visual inspection for cleanliness as outlined in Chapter 3 should be incorporated as part of the HVAC preventive maintenance schedule and should include all components of the system. The required frequency of inspection will vary depending on building use, occupant load, geographical location, and surrounding environment. In general, most HVAC systems should be inspected annually or biannually for cleanlines

mechanical cleaning techniques

When using mechanical cleaning techniques, care must be taken to avoid damaging insulated or lined duct work. Fiber glass insulated components should be cleaned using HEPA filtered exhaust equipment while the system is maintained under negative pressure. Fibrous glass insulated materials identified as damaged prior to or following system cleaning should be identified and replaced. Potential damage to fibrous glass insulation materials includes delaminating, friable material, fungal growth, or damp, wet material. If fiber glass insulation material must be replaced, all replacement materials and repair work must conform to applicable industry standards and codes.

Contractor Qualifications

Contractor Qualifications  The UCIAQ Committee recommends hiring a certified and trained contractor to perform HVAC system cleaning. Contractors should use accepted industry standards such as those outlined by the Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration (ASCR), the National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA), and the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association (NAIMA). Although in-house facilities or custodial services may perform limited HVAC system cleaning activities (ie. removal of particulate debris from diffusers, cleaning and repairing small localized duct damage), specialized expertise, skill and experience is required to properly clean and restore an entire HVAC system to optimal performance

The periodic

The periodic cleaning of HVAC systems may be necessary to ensure delivery of acceptable air to the indoor environment. Cleaning may be required on older systems that have not been properly maintained, damaged systems, or in special cases such as following extensive indoor or outdoor construction activities. HVAC system cleaning is expensive and potentially disruptive to normal operations so all possible sources of IAQ problems should be investigated and corrected prior to determining the need for system cleaning.  Frequent cleaning of HVAC systems should not be required if the system is properly maintained as outlined in Chapter 3 of this document.

Is it cost effective

Is it cost effective to set the temperature down a few degrees at night? If so, to
what temperature or how many degrees lower should it be set overnight?
During extremely cold weather, it is advised to keep the temperature constant both
day and night. If the heat pump is trying to recover in the morning during a cold
snap, it will have a difficult time getting to the temperature that you want it to be.
Turn it down as far as you can and still have it recover in time to be comfortable.
Your comfort level is the most important

How much does a ductless heat pump cost?

 How much does a ductless heat pump cost?
The average cost to install a ductless heat pump with a single indoor unit is
approximately $3,500. Additional indoor units and greater heating capacities will
increase the cost of the system. Other factors that will affect the cost of an installed 3
system include manufacturer and model, refrigerant line-set length, difficulty of
installation, and contractor rates

Mechanical Cleaning Techniques

Mechanical Cleaning Techniques  Mechanical techniques are useful to clean certain HVAC components including duct work, fan components, diffusers, dampers, and internal surfaces of the air handling unit. When using mechanical cleaning methods, strict controls such as physical barriers, devices equipped with HEPA filtered exhaust, and system negative pressure must be used to contain and collect debris. Mechanical cleaning methods incorporate techniques to agitate and dislodge material as well as contain and remove it. Agitation devices may include power brushes, pressurized air and water systems, as well as hand tools such as brushes. Collection of dislodged particulate debris is achieved by vacuums. A vacuum collection device with an appropriate capture velocity should be connected to a service opening and operated continuously to collect material as it is dislodged. In certain areas of the HVAC system, direct contact vacuuming with a brush may be used to remove material from contaminated surfaces.  

Chemical Sanitizers and Biocides

Chemical Sanitizers and Biocides  The use of chemical sanitizers or biocides may be necessary to clean certain HVAC system components such as heating or cooling coils. Following the use of chemical cleaners, all residues should be completely rinsed from the coil surfaces and removed from the HVAC system. Chapter 3, HVAC Operation and Maintenance, discusses the importance of routine sanitizing and use of biocides in cooling towers to reduce the number of microorganisms including Legionella spp.  
The UCIAQ Committee discourages the use of chemical sanitizers or biocides to treat building supply and return duct work. Although many antimicrobial products are EPA approved for use on hard, non-porous surfaces, these products were not specifically designed for use in HVAC systems and have not been evaluated for potential occupant health exposure issues. Any use of chemical sanitizers or biocides in duct work should be carefully reviewed by a health and safety professional prior to treatment. Problems involving visible fungal growth inside duct work must be addressed by first determining the source of moisture and correcting this problem. Following correction of the moisture problem, the system can be cleaned using mechanical techniques and detergents. Porous HVAC system materials such as insulation or fabric filters contaminated with visible fungal growth should be discarded and replaced

Are ductless heat pumps efficient?

Are ductless heat pumps efficient?
Yes, ductless heat pumps can reduce heating costs up to 50%. It is important to
remember that while your overall heating cost will be lower, your electricity bill will
increase.
Three key factors account for the high efficiency of a ductless heat pump:
1. During the heating season, heat pumps move heat from the cool outdoors into
your warm house and during the cooling season, heat pumps move heat from your
cool house into the warm outdoors. Because they move heat rather than generate
heat, heat pumps can provide up to four times the amount of energy they consume.
2. Heat pumps use inverter-driven, variable-speed compressors that allow the
system to maintain constant indoor temperatures by running continuously at higher
or lower speeds. Thus, the system can ramp-up or down without great losses in
operating efficiency, avoiding the energy-intensive on/off cycling common in electric
resistance, baseboard hot water, and forced air systems.
3. Ductless heat pumps also dehumidify better than standard central air
conditioners, resulting in less energy usage and more cooling comfort in summer
months.

Why consider a heat pump for heating?

Why consider a heat pump for heating?
Ductless heat pumps deliver 2.5 to 3 times more energy in the form of heat than they
use in electricity to produce the heat. At current prices, heat pumps can provide the
same amount of heat as oil, kerosene, propane, and resistance electric heating
systems at roughly half the cost.
Q: How is the heat pump controlled?
The heat pump is operated using a programmable remote control. Because the
thermostat is located in the wall unit, which is mounted closer to the ceiling than a
conventional thermostat, selecting the ideal comfort level takes practice. The actual 2
settings on the remote control may need to be a few degrees higher or lower to
achieve the desired comfort.
Most heat pumps also offer various modes of operation such as quiet, high,
economy, or timer. Wall-mounted controls are also available

What are appropriate

What are appropriate applications for ductless heat pumps?
Supplemental heating – Ductless heat pumps are ideal to supplement your primary
heating system and generally pay for themselves in less than five years. Heat
pumps are most often installed in the most frequently used rooms as a supplemental
heat source.
Room additions – A heat pump can also be used when a room is added onto a
house or an attic is converted to living space. Rather than extending the home’s
existing ductwork or pipes, or adding electric resistance heaters, the ductless system
can provide efficient heating and cooling.
New construction – New home designs can be adapted to take advantage of a
ductless heat pump’s many benefits.

Do heat pumps really heat well in our climate?

Do heat pumps really heat well in our climate?
Yes, there are now heat pumps that are rated to work well in cold climates. Newer
refrigerants can carry more heat from colder air and newer heat pump inverter
technology more efficiently matches the work done by the heat pump to the heating
or cooling needs of the customer.
Units eligible for the Heat Pump Pilot Program are rated to perform at temperatures
as low as -15 degrees F, so they can operate efficiently for most days of the heating
season.

What is a ductless heat pump?

What is a ductless heat pump?
A ductless heat pump is a highly efficient heating and cooling system that does not
require ductwork. Ductless heat pump systems consist of an outdoor compressor
unit and one or more indoor units, linked by refrigerant lines. Using a refrigerant
vapor compression cycle, like a common household refrigerator, ductless heat
pumps collect heat from outside the house and deliver it inside on the heating cycle,
and vice versa on the cooling cycle.
Ductless heat pumps use variable speed compressors to continuously match the
heating/cooling load, avoiding the on/off cycling of conventional electric resistance
and central heating systems. This eliminates uncomfortable temperature variations
and high-energy consumption. An indoor unit contains a quiet oscillating fan to
distribute air into the space. It is mounted on a wall covering a three-inch hole where
the refrigerant lines pass through to the outside unit, which can be mounted up to 66
feet away. Each indoor unit heats and cools its own zone and can be controlled
independently

Acoustical cladding

Acoustical cladding material ought to be utilized around all funneling and ventilation work which

passes through clamor touchy territories inside structures. While it is prescribed

that, for most applications, the wrapping ought to be ceaseless over the length of

the funnel or conduit, it is admired that there are a few cases where this

speaks to a lot of material

Should extra acoustical executio

Should extra acoustical execution past the

abilities of a solitary hindrance layer be needed for an especially touchy venture,

it is proposed that a second layer be connected over the first. For ideal

results, this second layer ought to be divided from the first boundary layer with a

decoupler as talked about in passage 2 above. This "twofold layer" of acoustical

cladding gives better acoustical execution analyzed than the utilization of a

single, heavier layer.

Acoustical boundary

Acoustical boundary wrap enhances the transmission loss of the channel or conduit and

thusly minimizes breakout commotion. This boundary needs to be an overwhelming material

which is sufficiently adaptable to allow wrapping around little breadth

channeling. In the past lead sheeting was used for this reason however late concerns

over lead introduction and legitimate limitations concerning its utilization have rendered this

material out of date.

Current barrium

Current barrium sulfate stacked vinyls are best suited for this

application as this material introduces no known wellbeing risks. It is critical that

there be no obstruction crevices or open regions over the area of the establishment as these

speak to huge acoustical "releases" that incredibly diminish viability. Obstruction

weights of 0.5 lb./sq. ft. to 1.0 lb./sq. ft. (2.5 to 5.0 kg/sq. meter) are generally

detailed as these materials are thin enough to allow great workmanship by the

introducing foreman

As a relationship

 As a relationship, it is the air space between two

(2) sheets of glass which gives the protection properties of a window. Mind

should be taken on the off chance that a funnel convey steam or high temp water is to be

wrapped to guarantee that the temperature protection capacities of the decoupler

fulfill the venture prerequisites.

Light thickness

Light thickness decoupling material gives an air space detachment between the

funnel or pipe and the outer surface boundary cladding. This decoupler material is

ordinarily defined to be light thickness fiber glass with at least 1" (25 mm)

thickness. Thicknesses more noteworthy than 1" offer enhanced abilities up to a

commonsense maximum cutoff of roughly 2" to 3" (50 to 75 mm). The decoupler

material needs to be light and permeable as it is the air caught inside the material

which fills the need of acoustically dividing the divider of the channel or conduit

from the outer surface hindrance cladding

Where the Particulate

Where the Particulate Collection Equipment is exhausting inside the building, HEPA filtration with
99.97% collection efficiency for 0.3-micron size (or greater) particles shall be used. When the
Particulate Collection Equipment is exhausting outside the building, Mechanical Cleaning

operations might

operations might be attempted just with Particulate Collection Equipment set up, including

satisfactory filtration to contain Debris expelled from the HVAC framework. At the point when the Particulate

Accumulation Equipment is debilitating outside the building, safety measures might be taken to place the

gear down wind and far from all air admissions and different purposes of passage into the building.

Where the

Where the Particulate Collection Equipment is debilitating inside the building, HEPA filtration with

99.97% accumulation productivity for 0.3-micron size (or more prominent) particles might be utilized. At the point when the

Particulate Collection Equipment is depleting outside the building, Mechanical Cleaning

ventilation work. In HVAC frameworks that incorporate different air taking care of units, an agent specimen of

ventilation work. In HVAC frameworks that incorporate different air taking care of units, an agent specimen of

the units ought to be investigated.

(B) The cleanliness investigation should be led without contrarily affecting the indoor

environment through unreasonable disturbance of settled dust, microbial enhancement or different trash.

In situations where tainting is suspected, and/or in delicate situations where even little

Regulation

Regulation

Garbage evacuated amid cleaning should be gathered and insurances must be taken to guarantee that

Garbage is not generally scattered outside the HVAC framework amid the cleaning methodology.

(B) Particulate Collection

2 HVAC SYSTEM INSPECTION AND SITE PREPARATIONS

2 HVAC SYSTEM INSPECTION AND SITE PREPARATIONS

(A) HVAC System Component Inspections

Preceding the beginning of any cleaning work, the HVAC framework cleaning foreman might

perform a visual investigation of the HVAC framework to focus proper strategies, instruments, and

supplies needed to attractively finish this undertaking. The cleanliness investigation ought to

incorporate air taking care of units and delegate regions of the HVAC framework parts and

inner part

inner part surfaces of the AHU, blending box, curl compartment, condensate channel dish, supply air

pipes, fans, fan lodging, fan edges, turning vanes, channels, channel lodgings, warm loops, and supply

diffusers are all viewed as a major aspect of the HVAC framework. The HVAC framework might likewise incorporate other

segments, for example, devoted fumes and ventilation parts and make-up air frameworks.

The Kitchen Hood Exhaust frameworks are excluded in the extent of work.

NR & R APPENDICES –

NR & R APPENDICES – NA7.5.15 (Functional Tests) The following shall be added to the NR Compliance Manual in the NA7 section NA7.5.15 Kitchen Exhaust Systems with Type I Hood Systems The following acceptance tests apply to commercial kitchen exhaust systems with Type I exhaust hoods.  All Type I exhaust hoods used in commercial kitchens shall be tested. NA7.5.15.1 Kitchen Exhaust Construction Inspection 1. Verify exhaust and replacement air systems are installed, power is installed and control systems such as demand control ventilation are calibrated 2. For kitchen/dining facilities having total Type 1 and Type II kitchen hood exhaust airflow rates greater than 5,000 cfm, calculate the maximum allowable exhaust rate for each Type 1 hood per Table 144-

The following

The following acceptance test applies to systems with and without demand control ventilation exhaust systems. 1. Operate all sources of outdoor air providing replacement air for the hoods 2. Operate all sources of recirculated air providing conditioning for the space in which the hoods are located 3. Operate all appliances under the hoods at operating temperatures 4. Verify that the thermal plume and smoke is completely captured and contained within each hood at full load conditions by observing smoke or steam produced by actual cooking operation and/or by visually seeding the thermal plume using devices such as smoke candles or smoke puffers.  Smoke bombs shall not be used (note: smoke bombs typically create a large volume of effluent from a point source and do not necessarily confirm whether the cooking effluent is being captured). For some appliances (e.g., broilers, griddles, fryers), actual cooking at the norm

production

production rate is a reliable method of generating smoke). Other appliances that typically generate hot moist air without smoke (e.g., ovens, steamers) need seeding of the thermal plume with artificial smoke to verify capture and containment. 5. Verify that space pressurization is appropriate (e.g. kitchen is slightly negative relative to adjacent spaces and all doors open/close properly). 6. Verify that each Type 1 hood has an exhaust rate that is below the maximum allowed. 7. Make adjustments as necessary until full capture and containment and adequate space pressurization are achieved and maximum allowable exhaust rates are not exceeded.  Adjustments may include: a. adjust exhaust hood airflow rates  b. add hood side panels c. Add rear seal (back plate) d. Increase hood overhang by pushing equipment back e. Relocate supply outlets to improve the capture and containment performance  8. Measure and record final exhaust airflow rate per Type 1 hood.

Functional Testing

NA7.5.15.2.2 Functional Testing - Exhaust Systems with Demand Control Ventilation The following additional acceptance test shall be performed on all hoods with demand control ventilation exhaust systems. 1. Turn off all kitchen hoods, makeup air and transfer systems 2. Turn on one of the appliances on the line and bring to operating temperature. Confirm that: a. DCV system automatically switches from off to the minimum flow setpoint. b. The minimum flow setpoint does not exceed the larger of i. 50% of the design flow, or  ii. the ventilation rate required per Section 121. c. The makeup air and transfer air system flow rates modulate as appropriate to match the exhaust rate d. Appropriate space pressurization is maintained. 3. Operate all appliances at typical conditions. Apply sample cooking products and/or utilize smoke puffers as appropriate.  Confirm that: a. DCV system automatically ramps to full speed. b. Hood maintains full capture and containment during ramping to and at full-speed c. Appropriate space pressurization is maintained.

Nonresidential ACM

6.5 Nonresidential ACM Manual Kitchen Space Type: In order for compliance software to analyze this and other kitchen related measures, kitchens shall be modeled as separate space types apart from other building occupancy types and be assigned lighting, plug load, and people densities. Internal load shall use the following:  Lighting: 1.6 watts per square foot  Plug Load: 10 watts per square foot  Occupants: 100 square feet per occupant  Schedules: Use Table N2-8-Nonresidential Occpancy Schedules(Other than Retail) User Input: 1. Values for all Type I and Type II exhaust hoods in the modeled kitchen. a. CFM values for all hoods b. For Type I hoods ONLY i. Hood Length ii. Hood Style (Canopy, Wall Mount, etc.) iii. Hood Cooking Duty (Highest duty appliance under hood)

The Standard Baseline Model:

The Standard Baseline Model: 1. Total kitchen exhaust shall be either: a) If the total exhaust is less than 5,000 cfm, the user entered total exhaust rate. b) If the total exhaust rate is greater than or equal to 5,000 cfm, a total exhaust rate that is the sum of the Type I hoods based on the user input data and less than or equal to the maximum net exhaust flow rate in Table 144-C. c) Hood exhaust total static pressure shall be 2.5” and the fan efficiency shall be 50%. 2. Conditioning Systems a. The Cooling Load and Cooling CFM for the kitchen are calculated using a Cooling Space Setpoint of 80°F and a Cooling Supply Air temperature setpoint of 60°F.     b. The standard model shall use a 100% outside air direct evaporative system if the space temperature exceeds 80oF less than 10 hour per year, i.e. the compliance software will have to first run direct evaporative and then run DX if direct evaporative cannot meet the comfort criteria. i. Direct evaporative system assumptions: 1. 90% direct evaporative effectiveness 2. 1.5” total fan static, 60% fan efficiency 3. 100% outside airflow equal to the total kitchen exhaust c. If the standard model cannot meet the direct evaporative criteria, the system shall be modeled as System 1 or 2 except as noted herein: i. The standard model shall model the makeup air unit as a 100% outside air packaged unit ii. Supply cfm shall use the larger of the Cooling CFM or the Total Exhaust minus the Available Transfer. iii. Total fan static for the packaged unit shall be 2.0” , fan efficiency shall be 50

CANOPY & SUPPRESSION ELMHURST SCHOOL

CANOPY & SUPPRESSION ELMHURST SCHOOL
We liaised with both the consultant, Fowler Martin, and the contractor, AC Preou at all times during the installation of this Induction Island Canopy.
The system featureed an Ansul R-102 Fire Suppression system, fully recessed grease- proof lights and a Medem Control Interlock system.
KITCHEN VENTILATION HALLSVILLE PRIMARY SCHOOL
Our track record of successful and efficient projects was demonstrated by this 'Canvent' island kitchen canopy installation for the London Borough Council of Newham.
The 4100 x 2200 x 600 deep island kitchen canopy was fitted with grease proof, recessed lights, stainless steel grease filters and a R102 Ansul fire suppression system.
WALL MOUTED SYSTEM TIVIDALE SCHOOL
We worked closely with Sandwell MBC to complete this installation of a kitchen ventilation system, complete with control solution that featured a thyristor, speed regulators and gas interlock.
The existing canopy was removed and a stainless steel wall mounted extraction canopy was designed and installed in it's place, with a provision for make-up air

Loft venting

Loft venting is an essential piece of a home's dampness and hotness administration framework. Upper room ventilation is typically uninvolved in nature and depends on convective air flow–intake and debilitate. Cooler air is attracted through the lower vents, then moves along the overhang, then climbs to the highest point of the upper room where it passes out through the upper vents. By venting dampness and high temperature, this methodology permits a home to be more vitality proficient. It helps safeguard the trustworthiness of a home's building parts, making it more tough, and reducing the requirement for exorbitant repairs. It likewise aides keep the development of hurtful molds and forms that can harm human wellbeing.

Numerous property

Numerous property holders are joyfully unconscious of whether the loft venting in their house is sufficient, whether the ventilation structures are legitimately put, or whether the venting is proper to the home's building design. Yet, the essentialness of storage room ventilation can't be exaggerated.

At Energy Efficiency First, as experts applying the standards of building science, we normally teach our customers about the routes in which their homes function as a framework. It is our occupation to comprehend the results, planned or unintended, that changing one piece of a home can have on different parts or territories of the home.

Generally speaking

Generally speaking, more attic ventilation is better than less, especially if the home’s building envelope at the thermal boundary is well air sealed so that any excess attic ventilation is not able to draw conditioned air from the home’s living space. When we see a home with a problem related to attic ventilation, it is usually from too little. We have found structures built without the building code’s minimum ventilation requirements. We have also found attics where a home improvement project was done in a manner that blocked, and choked off, the otherwise adequate lower ventilation structures.

Attic venting

Attic venting is a crucial part of a home’s moisture and heat management system. Attic ventilation is usually passive in nature and relies on convective air flow–intake and exhaust. Cooler air is drawn in through the lower vents, then moves along the eaves, then rises to the top of the attic where it passes out through the upper vents. By venting moisture and heat, this process allows a home to be more energy efficient. It helps preserve the integrity of a home’s building components, making it more durable, and lessening the need for costly repairs. It also helps prevent the growth of harmful mildews and molds that can damage human health.

There are two components

There are two components in a fundamental ventilation framework:

A fan to concentrate stale air. Pick-up focuses for stale air are by and large in high dampness ranges, for example, the kitchen, utility and bathrooms.

The make-up air supply. Outside air is conveyed around the house, with one supply point in every room and no less than one in the living region. The suction made by the fumes fan pulls air through the house from supply indicates the pick-up focuses. By appropriately spotting the pick-up and supply focuses, outside air will go all through the whole house.

Cleaning Indoor Air: Pet Allergies

Cleaning Indoor Air: Pet Allergies

If you have pets that you love, but you also have pet allergies, there are some ways to improve the air you breathe. “Keep the pet outside or at the very least outside of your bedroom,” Calhoun says. “Just reducing the allergen burden in the bedroom will likely have some benefit because we spend eight hours in the bedroom a night.”

Bathing your pet regularly can also reduce allergen burden, according to Calhoun

Introducing ventilation

Introducing ventilation will dispose of abundance dampness.

Kitchen, lavatory and storm cellar fumes fans are a decent starting for those particular inconvenience spots, giving spot ventilation to oust dampness and smells from constrained territories. With spot ventilation, you can physically flip a switch and tackle the issue.

A ventilation framework

A ventilation framework will keep up general indoor-air quality. A fundamental ventilation framework ousts stale air (containing water vapor, carbon dioxide, airborne chemicals and different toxins), attracts outside air (containing less poisons and less water vapor), and circulates outside air all through the house.

Many homeowners

Many homeowners are blissfully unaware of whether the attic venting in their home is sufficient, whether the ventilation structures are properly placed, or whether the venting is appropriate to the home’s architecture. Yet, the importance of attic ventilation cannot be overstated.

At Energy Efficiency First, as professionals applying the principles of building science, we commonly educate our clients about the ways in which their homes work as a system. It is our job to understand the consequences, intended or unintended, that changing one part of a home can have on other components or areas of the home.

Particles in the Air

Particles in the Air

Cleaning regularly is a good way to keep your indoor air irritant-free, right? Wrong! It can actually make things worse unless you choose your cleaning products wisely.

Some cleaning products, including those with chlorine and ammonia, contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Some paints, shellacs, and floor polishes may also contain VOCs. The compounds then go into the air as gases.

You can cut down on VOCs by choosing products that say "low VOC" or "no VOC" or buying fragrance-free cleaners. Harold S. Nelson, MD, professor of medicine at National Jewish Health in Denver, advises considering liquids or pastes instead of sprays for cleaning because they disperse fewer particles into the air.

VOCs aren't the only particles affecting air quality. Mold spores that start off in a damp basement can float up into the rest of the house. "Areas of leakage and dampness should be addressed throughout the house,” Nelson says.

Indoor Air Pollution: Irritating Gasses

Indoor Air Pollution: Irritating Gasses

Do you cook with a natural gas or propane stove? ”Get the gas jets cleaned and serviced annually by a technician who can adjust the metering so that the gas burns cleanly,” Calhoun says. This is important for all gas-run appliances.

“In the kitchen, the stove emits nitrogen dioxide, one of the most irritating gases, and when combined with sunlight, produces ozone,” says Schachter. “This gas is so irritating that at higher levels can cause wheezing in people who don't have asthma."

Simple solution? If you have a gas stove, keep the kitchen window open a bit or turn on the fan hood to avoid nitrogen dioxide buildup, he suggests.

Step 2: Turn on the AC

Step 2: Turn on the AC. Use an air conditioner in the summer, Schachter says. “Many pollutants are water-soluble, and as air conditioners remove water from the atmosphere, they remove these pollutants,” he tells WebMD. “Air conditioners also remove pollen and particulate matter.”

Step 3: Install a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) filter. You can make the air conditioner even more effective with a disposable HEPA filter, says Schachter.

Stand-alone HEPA air cleaners are another option for cleaning the air in a single room. If they use a fan to draw in the air, they can be noisy, however.

It’s less clear how effective electronic air cleaners are since there is no standard measurement for their effectiveness. Also, electronic cleaners may not be effective at removing large air particles, according to the Environmental Protection Agency.

Space heaters

Space heaters, ranges, ovens, stoves, furnaces, fireplaces, and water heaters "release gases and particulates into the air,” Calhoun adds. “There is also the fairly intense burden of allergens with indoor air quality such as pets, house dust mites. And perennial (year-long) allergens are 10- to 100-fold higher indoors than out.”

Bad air can trigger coughing, chest tightness, sore throat, watery or itchy eyes, shortness of breath, and even a full-blown asthma attack. “If you live in a home with chronically poor air quality, you can experience frequent headaches, long lasting colds, and bronchitis as well as chronic asthma,” says E. Neil Schachter, MD, the medical director of respiratory care at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York.

potential sources

There are potential sources of air pollution in just about every room of your house, but don’t despair. The good news is that there are easy, and affordable, solutions for most of them.

What could be polluting the air in your home? The pollutants that lurk outdoors can be found indoors as well, where they can and do join forces with other irritants. Those can include fumes from combustion devices and gas-fired appliances, not to mention allergens such as pet dander, house dust mites, and mold, Calhoun says.

bad air day

You may be having a bad air day every day -- and we are not talking about outdoor air. The indoor air quality in your home may be affecting your health and the health of your family members.

"Indoor air quality can be worse than outdoor air quality in almost every case,” says William J. Calhoun, MD, professor of medicine and vice chair of the department of medicine at the University of Texas Medical Branch in Galveston.

Keeping cool in summer

Keeping cool in summer

Keeping a house cool in summer is also an important consideration. Measures to control overheating include:

• Controlling heat from the sun by reducing window areas or using tinted or reflective glazing, and shading.
• Increasing ventilation – cross-flow ventilation, extractor fans and ceiling fans and passive vents.
• Increasing insulation, especially in roofs.

3 Steps to Better Indoor Air Quality

3 Steps to Better Indoor Air Quality

Step 1: Increase ventilation in your house. “We tend to keep our windows tightly shut in the winter, but flinging open a window is not the answer,” says Schachter. “Outdoor air contains by-products of gas emissions from cars and trucks, industrial pollution, as well as dirt and mold.”

Best solution? “Use trickle ventilation, which is a 10-inch high screen with extra filters,” he says. “It adjusts to most windows and allows fresh air in, helps escort indoor pollutants out.”

Air conditioning and heat pumps

Air conditioning and heat pumps

Air conditioning, or cooling with heat pumps uses significant amounts of electricity and requires the home to be closed off from the outside environment to work best.

It dries the internal air and can harbour and spread bacteria if not maintained.

If passive design principles are followed and some supplementary cooling is still required, other options such as fans are much more cost effective than air-conditioning. Even if you  heat pump is very energy efficient, you will find your power bills going up if you use it for summer cooling.

Challenges of windy sites

Challenges of windy sites

Slowing down or excluding strong hot summer winds can be a challenge.

In some cases, the prevailing hot summer wind, sun and views are all orientated north.

It is important to know your site's climate and microclimate when you are planning a new home or renovation, so that wind direction can be considered. See Understanding your site and Orientationfor more.

On windy sites, consider:

• putting doorways and some windows into sheltered recesses so they can be opened even when it's windy to let warm air out
• using windows and doors on the south and east side of your home to provide for air movement without gusts if the prevailing wind is from the north
• using sliding windows - they won't slam shut in the wind
• using small openings - one at ground level and one in the roof or on an upper level - to provide for ventilation on windy days
• using wind breaks and mounded plantings around your home to slow the wind down and change the wind path.

Cooling air with water

Cooling air with water

When water evaporates, it absorbs heat from surrounding air, so the air cools.

Evaporation works best when humidity is lower so the air can take up more water vapour.

Rates of evaporation are increased by air movement and the exposed surface area of water. Fountains and mist sprays are effective for cooling.

Other options include pools, ponds and water features immediately outside windows or in courtyards to cool air before it enters the house.

Ventilation

Ventilation

Air movement keeps you cool by increasing the rate at which moisture evaporates from your skin. You'll need more air movement as humidity increases.

You can harness air movement by:

• orienting your home to catch the prevailing breeze
• using passive ventilation to get air circulating through your home
• combining passive ventilation with ceiling fans to direct the incoming cooler air where you need it.

Passive ventilation uses doors, windows, vents, louvres and other openings to let fresh air into and through your home. This helps to provide cooling, as well as removing moisture and airborne pollutants.

Leave your windows open to let breezes through your house.

See Ventilation and Orientation for more.

Options for ventilation

Options for ventilation

Ideally the air in a home should be 'renewed' every two hours, even when you are not at home. Some simple options are to fit aluminium windows with passive air vents or to fit security stays that allow the windows to be left ajar. When windows and doors cannot be left open, consider mechanical ventilation systems and air conditioning systems:

• Positive pressure or forced air ventilation systems work by blowing drier air into your house from the roof space above the ceiling or, in some types, from outside. They suit older houses with wooden joinery better than modern houses with sealed aluminium joinery – unless windows are opened or additional vents fitted.
• Balanced pressure / heat exchanger ventilation systems extract warm damp air from living spaces and pass it through a heat-exchanger to heat up dry air which the system brings in from outside. This can fully meet Building Code requirements. They work best in more airtight, modern homes.
• Extractor fans are used in places like the kitchen and bathrooms to remove steam.

For more information about ventilation systems go to consumer.org.nz. Note: you need to be a member to access this information.

Which system is best?

Thermal mass

Thermal mass

Materials with high thermal mass (materials that are good at absorbing and storing heat) can be used to aid heating in winter and cooling in summer. These materials are usually heavy - such as concrete and brick - and are used in floors or walls.

Used properly - the right amount in the right place, with proper insulation - will ensure they help passive cooling by absorbing heat from the surrounding air. They will keep absorbing heat as long as the air temperature is higher than the temperature of the thermal mass.

Thermal mass designed to get direct sun in winter, but not in summer, will stay cool during summer days and keep air temperatures down.

See Using thermal mass for heating and cooling for more information.

drive energy

By adding a small amount of drive energy, a heat pump can move heat from a low temperature to a high temperature. This means that the same piece of equipment can be used to remove heat from a space (cooling) at one end while at the same time adding heat to another space (heating).
The most prevalent use of heat pumps is for cooling, e.g. the common household refrigerator or air conditioner, but increasingly heat pumps are also used to upgrade heat to useful heating temperatures. In applications when both heating and cooling are needed this is a win-win situation which virtually doubles the cost-effectiveness of the installation.
According to the International Energy Agency, IEA, the buildings sector needs to reduce its CO2 emissions by over 70 % in comparison with 2010 levels in order to limit the increase in global temperature. The challenge is to achieve this reduction while at the same time energy demand is rising from an increasing number of both residential and commercial buildings. This challenge can be met by the heat pump technology, employing it in a wide range of applications in terms of heating, cooling and air conditioning.  Heat pumps are also a suitable solution for retrofit buildings. Therefore, heat pumps have a large potential in contributing to the reduction of global CO2 emissions.

Why heat pumps are a technology for the future

Sustainable energy systems of the future will rely on two major principles: efficient end-use and efficient use of renewables. In this scenario, the heat pump is a brilliant invention which is beautifully adaptable for a multitude of applications relating to both efficient end-use and renewably supply. The energy source used by a heat pump is renewable energy from ground, air, water and waste heat sources.

HPP Activities

 

 The primary activities within the Heat Pump Programme are, besides the Annexes, the triennial International energy Agency's Heat Pump Conference and the workshops which is held in conjunction with the conference. At the conference the Rittinger award is also handed out since 2005, the award is the highest international award in the air conditioning, heat pump and refrigeration field.

Earth heat

Some confusion exists with regard to the terminology of heat pumps and the use of the term "geothermal". "Geothermal" derives from the Greek and means "Earth heat" - which geologists and many laymen understand as describing hot rocks, volcanic activity or heat derived from deep within the earth. Though some confusion arises when the term "geothermal" is also used to apply to temperatures within the first 100 metres of the surface, this is "Earth heat" all the same, though it is largely influenced by stored energy from the sun.

What condition is your air conditioner in?

What condition is your air conditioner in?

If there’s an exception to the old “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” rule, it has to do with air conditioners. The EPA recommends you consider replacement of your air conditioner if it’s over 10 years old.1 If you want to get on board with doing the right thing for the planet and your pocketbook it makes sense because newer ACs are just that much more efficient than they used to be. For example, if you were to replace an old air conditioner with a 10-SEER rating with a new 21-SEER unit and proper indoor coil, you could save up to 56% on your cooling costs. Of course, there are other reasons why you might feel the need to pull the plug on your current unit right now:

• Your air conditioner needs frequent repairs and your energy bills are going up—your cooling equipment may have become less efficient
• Your cooling system is noisy—newer, variable-speed and even 2-stage systems tend to operate quieter.

Controlling moisture build-up

Controlling moisture build-up

Moisture accumulates in the house from people bathing, showering, cooking, breathing, and watering plants. It also comes into a home from outside. Some appliances, such as unvented gas heating, clothes dryers, dishwashers and washing machines also produce excess moisture into the air.

The moisture builds up quickly and is worse in modern homes which are built to be almost airtight. On cold days you can see the moisture when it collects on the windows as condensation. It is also absorbed into fabrics and building materials. The problem with this moisture build-up is that it can cause mould and mildew on walls and fabrics, which is not only unsightly, but can trigger allergies. For example, dust mites - the source of one of the most powerful biological allergens - thrive in damp conditions.

If you are building a new house, there are a number of chemicals and resins present in many building materials which continue to leak into the indoor atmosphere for many months after you move in. This can be managed with good ventilation.

The options for managing moisture are:

• Good ventilation.
• Window joinery with built-in drains - that allow condensation to drain to the outside.
• Keeping the house warm and dry through heating.
• Extraction fans in bathrooms and kitchens.
• Good insulation to keep the home warm and reduce condensation and mould growth.

Matching your system for optimum efficiency.

Matching your system for optimum efficiency.

Additional factors that affect the efficiency of your air conditioner or heat pump system are your indoor coil and blower motor. If your indoor coil isn’t properly sized to match your outdoor condensing unit, the system may not give you the stated SEER and/or HSPF ratings and could even develop performance problems. Not having a variable-speed blower motor means the system will tend to consume more electricity. That’s because the fan will frequently be operating a higher speeds than necessary to move the conditioned air in the house.

When you replace an existing outdoor unit, make sure you talk to your Carrier Expert about the potential effects of the indoor system on efficiency. It may be wise to replace both units in order to assure longer system life and gain peak performance, efficiency and comfort.

Cost savings

Cost savings

All your life, you’ve heard that you get what you pay for, and energy efficiency is no exception. The higher the efficiency of a heat pump, air conditioner or furnace, the more sophisticated the unit, and therefore, the more it tends to cost.

But despite the higher price tag, energy-efficient units invariably come with lower utility bills. Significantly lower, in many cases. As a result, you could see your additional investment paid back in only a few short years. And long after you’ve broken even with savings, you’ll continue to save on your energy bills―plus you get to enjoy the added comfort benefits that usually come with the model’s increased functionality.

How long would it take for one of our fuel-efficient systems to pay off for you? Your local Carrier expert would be happy to break down all the numbers for you.

OTHER BENEFITS OF CLEAN DUCTS

OTHER BENEFITS OF CLEAN DUCTS

Besides the obvious health benefits derived from cleaning HVAC systems, here are some other benefits:

1. Increased employee productivity - healthier people make better workers and lose less time to sickness.
2. Reduced housekeeping costs - the HVAC system is not pumping dirty air into the occupied space.
3. Increased airflow - because air moves unobstructed by debris build up, blowers and fans do not need to cycle as long or as often.
4. Energy savings - because motors and drives do not work as hard, less energy is consumed by the system.

DOING THE JOB

DOING THE JOB

Before beginning any duct cleaning job, the HVAC system must be shut off and locked out using approved lockout/tagout procedures. Drop cloths should again be used to protect the occupied space. The return side of the system is always cleaned first. The return side can typically be 5 to 10 times as dirty as the supply side.

Starting at the return air and outdoor air intakes, sections of duct are cleaned moving toward the main air handler. Sections of ductwork can be isolated for cleaning by inserting inflatable bladders in the duct and inflating them to block the duct off. Cleaned sections can be isolated in this way to prevent recontamination. An access opening should be made in the duct if one does not currently exist. Another opening is needed further downstream for connection of the HEPA filter equipped negative air machine. Typically, the distance between openings is 25 feet or less. With the negative air unit running, the cleaning tool is inserted into the duct and fed in the direction of the airstream. Some of the rotary brush type cleaners available can be fitted with a fan-like brushing tool that actually blows the debris toward the vacuum source. Care must be exercised when using a rotary brush in lined duct not to allow the brush to remain in one spot for too long. Close attention should be paid to cleaning fire dampers and turning vanes as greater deposits are often found in these areas.

Once the return side has been completed, the supply side of the system is cleaned using the same techniques. Access openings should be closed with reusable doors or air tight patches as the work moves along. Any disturbed insulation must be repaired as well. Grills and registers can be removed and pressure washed or vacuumed with the portable HEPA vacuum.

Particular attention should also be given to heating and cooling coils and drip pans. These are prime breeding grounds for microbial contamination and, if left uncleaned, will recontaminate the newly cleaned ducts. Coils and drip pans are best cleaned using the portable pressure washer and portable HEPA vacuum. At this time, drip pans should be checked for proper drainage and drainage systems freed of any obstructions.

Once the cleaning is completed and all access points resealed, a final inspection should be performed. Once the system is started up, it should be allowed to run until 8 complete air changes have occurred before the area is reoccupied.

Also, consideration should be given to the installation of more efficient filters on the HVAC system to reduce future contamination